Should a man be contented with what he has or should we try being extraordinary? This particular query haunts me every time and before I respond, this ordinary guy always has perpetual love towards Ladakh.
Leh-Ladakh is not for the habitual, but for the crazy set of people. Keep reading if you are extraordinary or visit this page when you are ready.
There are some handful of articles which touch upon the do’s and don’t when you are in Ladakh. I have browsed the same pieces of stuff over and over again, so I am not going to make it more boring but will give away my authentic experiences and the novice snafu.
For an equatorial sweltering guy accustoming 18k ASL from 0 ASL is a shock to my system (both physical and mental) that cannot be explained. Anyways I will strive to add integrity. This journal is my perspective with the lessons accumulated from this foray and I will allow myself to avert the obvious contents I gazed many days before this expedition.
Trepidation took over as soon as I chose to confront Ladakh. It was not a conventional 10-15 day itinerary as we could not afford the time and we had to curtail to an 8-day trip and still draw the nectar out of the expedition.
Being an 8-day trip, our planning had to be precise. We narrowed down the places and since it was an 8-day trip, biking the world famous Manali-Leh roadway is not an option for us.
Deepak and Parthiban were up to this trip from my office and my friend Prasanna is always ready for this kind of a trip. So we 4 grouped up and started with the obvious of opening up the WhatsApp group titled “History in Making – Leh” (yea, that sounds silly 😛 ).
DAY – 1 (Bangalore-Delhi-Leh)
Started at 02:00 AM from my home to Bangalore International Airport with mixed feelings and boarded the Jet Airways at 05:30 to Leh with Delhi as a stopover. Reached T3 Terminal, Delhi around 08:00 and had an immediate flight to Leh (lucky me at the same terminal). Had it been another terminal I would have never made it, since this airport is so huge and intimidating.
This particular journey from Delhi to Leh will etch in my mind forever since it is the first time, I witnessed the snow-clad mountains. I may have looked silly the perfect analogy being an 8-year-old refusing to move out from his window seat of the moving train with his mouth open astonished, but I did not care!!
Leh is magically placed at an altitude of 13000 feet above sea level. There was even an announcement from the cabin crew subtlety warning us of the effects and consequences it would have on our body making me little hawky.
The Rinpoche Airport was notably small but had a Tibetan home feeling attached to it. We hired a cab from the airport to the guest house for 300 INR.
We had to acclimatize and decided to give our body the time to normalize. I could see immediate changes, the breathing went short, Walking some distance made me running out of breath.
The hospitality was amazing and had a nice sumptuous meal and welcomed in by our guests. Unwinded at the guest house and then started to look out for the bikes and permits.
Do note that we need to take ILP (Inner Line Permit) even for Indians and that cost us around 600 INR.
Now, this is an ultimate and most anxious moment in my life. I have never in my life tried a Royal Enfield before and the first time I touch this bike is these rugged roads (I mean the real roads might take offense if I call these as roads!!!).
I musted my courage and gave it a try. I tried both Avenger and Enfield Classic 350cc. Avenger was not an option for me as I was not really comfortable given my height, leaving me with Classic.
Enfield was smooth and I instantly accepted the bike and were all set for the long and tiring challenge.
DAY – 2 (Leh-Khardung La- Nubra- Sumur – 140KM)
All our plans of starting at 9 AM went in vain as we all started at 12:15 PM after the bike renting formalities and obtaining permits and the ridiculous traffic at Leh.
Leh to Khardungla is just 40 Km with a clean stretch but the altitude gain is almost 5000 feet higher.
We started from Leh passed South Pullu (where there is a military check post and we need to show our permits). We halted there, had a routine Maggi and Chai and started to Khardungla.
Khardungla needs no introduction and is touted as the highest motorable road in the world (17582ft) but the claim is an arguable one.
Mana Pass along the India-Tibet border is the highest motorable road with a 18192ft above sea level.
But do I really need to care? It is one of the highest points and the boards claim so and that’s enough for me to rejoice.
Reached around 2 PM. The place where I first touched the snow and played like a child.
Khardungla has a cafeteria, gompa (Buddhist temple), military Outpost and souvenir shop.
Hiking the gompa will be your highpoints. It just has 100-150 steps and you would have to catch up with your breathe if you try to climb. Nevertheless a wonderful experience to savour.
We then started our journey to the famous Nubra Valley. The ride from Khardungla to North Pullu village is a drivers nightmare. North Pullu to Nubra Valley road is a better. The views were fascinating and at each minute you will have to take a decision on whether to look mesmerized and get lost in the views or to look at the roads and be alive.
North Pullu to Khalsar offers all that you seek. Mountain pass, Valley, Snows, Zanskar River by your side, do we need more?
After Khalsar, the road to Sumur goes straight and takes left for Diskit and Hunder Valley.
It was 7PM we reached Sumur Valley and camped at Tiger Camp. After a wonderful but not so exhaustive ride had a really good bonfire at the camp and finally hit the bed.
DAY -3 (Nubra-Diskit-Leh – 180KM)
We were discussing our plans to our guest house guy named Jimmy and he told us that the road from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok is blocked (due to weather issues) and that made us change our entire plan and all our accommodation plans went for a toss. (Later we came to know that the route was opened a day before and cursed ourselves for not checking correctly and this is another story to rant!!!)
That left us with an option of going back to Leh and will make us probably lose two full days. But did we have a choice? Hell No, we gotta respect and listen to the mountains. She is mostly right.
We went to Sumur Sand Dunes, there were these local kids who accompanied us on the way. Had a really great time till noon and then started to Diskit around 12:30 PM. the road from Khalsar to Diskit right in between the Zanskar River is unreal. There was very less water in it and that gave us the access to that road.
Went to Diskit Monastery with big Buddha statue showing us the way. From Diskit we started at 03:00 PM and had to cover almost 115km to Leh.
That set us with the panic button and everyone raced to reach Leh before the sunset.
I was left behind as I stopped and rested for some time in North Pullu. I really freaked out around 05:00 PM realizing that I have not even reached Khardungla when the sun slowly disappearing and the darkness creeps in, lost my gloves Midway, cold and snow freezing my hand, not able to move my bike with exhausted and frozen hand, not a sight of help to seek, did not see any person for the last two hours, God that cannot be explained.
Reached Khardungla around 06:30 PM and I could see my friends waiting for me. Instead of heaving a sigh of relief, I almost went berserk and gave my piece of mind. The guys understood I am in distress and we moved on. I regret it now!!!
Then we made a pact that we move in groups looking at the side mirror and stop if someone cannot be spotted.
Reached our hotel at Leh around 08:00 PM. All our pre-planned accommodations are screwed and hence we took another room in the same guest house.
DAY – 4 (Leh-Shey-Thiksey-Hemis-Shakthi-Zingral-Changla-Durbuk-Tangste-Lukung-PangongTso – 225KM)
Starting late has become a habit for us by now and we know we again have a long run. We started from Leh at 11:00 AM and till Hemis the roads were fantastic (with Indus River casually flowing by our side). Once we reach Shakti, the roads went from good to worse and it was all barren with only puffs of dust flying all around.
It was undoubtedly my toughest drive and we took a couple of 5-liter petrol cans attached as there are no petrol bunks after Shakti.
The roads were so tough and bumpy that half of the petrol spilled over. My old Enfield bullet refused to climb unless I put him in first gear. Another 3 hours of the grueling ride, we reached Changla at 17590ft (claimed as the second highest motorable road) around 3pm and rested at Changla Cafe.
Momo’s and Maggi were soothing in that cold but were soon devastated after hearing that we are just halfway and there are another 3-4 hours to cover to reach the destination.
Started from Changla at 16:00 and the next round starts. Deepak’s Enfield started giving problems and hence we chose to exchange bikes.
This was my death moment, as soon as I rode that bike for some 3KM, could realize that the back wheel skids and to top it off, the normal back brakes weren’t as good as well.
I was terrified and stopped the bike for a minute, mustered courage and took off. This phase will my most treasured moment as I liked that fear that traveled within me.
Believe it or not, words are so powerful that can instantly change one’s mood and that’s a big life lesson I learned here.
When I was almost swearing that bike thinking my life is in danger, I saw this boarding from Indian Army.
The energy levels almost shot up and suddenly after some time, I almost forgot the problems and my only goal was to finish my journey. I became so relaxed that I was racing first in the group and suddenly all problems with the bike in my head disappeared.
One of the crazy shigo saw en-route which made our day and made us going to Pangong Tso for sure.
We reached Tangste around 18:30 with another 40 KM. At least that’s what the board climbed.
It was pitch dark and we traveled like a snail. We were all visibly worried and we passed streams, glacial water retreats, missed our route near Phobrang, terrified near Lukung, then saw a board around 09:00 PM saying Pangong Tso lake in 4Km.
Now, this is an interesting part. We kept track of the KM and moved forward. We crossed 5KM and no signs of any people or lights near us. It was all pitch dark and wild dogs chasing!
Now we see a board saying “no entry beyond this points for all vehicles” along with warning signboards warning us of animals.
We then came to an agreement where it is dangerous to travel further as we are not sure whether we were coming in the right route and contemplating there could be wild dogs and snow leopards waiting for its prey. We turned and went back to the last village we passed and decided to take some room.
We went back to the Village where we saw a vehicle and they said us that it was the correct route and if we would have crossed the mountains, that’s where the destination is.
We tried to follow the vehicle, but that guy with a tempo was whizzing past us. We tried to catch him, but that seemed impossible. At least now we know that we are on the right route.
Around 10 PM, after crossing three dangerous life taking streams, the current was pretty strong, we finally saw the camp light and we became normal.
The tempo which guided us was waiting for us outside our camp just to make sure that we are safe and are on the right route. As soon as they saw us, they waved us goodbye and resumed their F1 race. Lesson Learnt – Indians may look rough outside but has a soft heart, the perfect metaphor being a jackfruit and definitely not an onion.
It was must be 2° C around the lake and sleep evaded us that night because of the cold and breathlessness.
DAY – 5 (Chilling in Pangong Tso)
We again changed our plan and decided to make it a rest day as we did not want to ride the bikes again. We decided to skip the moon land of Lamayuru and decided to spend in Pangong.
We saw the first glimpse of the lake and wow, that was the first time, I saw a blue, green, violet shades all at the same time.
Pangong Tso is at an altitude of 14270 ft and is 134 Km long saltwater lake. One third is in Indian territory and the rest is in the Chinese territory of Tibet).
Got my feet wet and chilled around for a day like a boss. I and my friends discussed how it feels like to do nothing without any gadgets and open up some random conversations to get it going.
Campfires just next to the lake were surreal, but the winds were playing spoilsport. Had a nice dinner and finally went to bed.
DAY – 6 (Backtracing Leh from Pangong)
We all decided to start early (pretty much was worried about the stream) early morning the currents would be low and ideal. That made us get our ass going.
Started at 08:00 AM, by this time we are all pretty used to the intense biking. Reached Durmuk by 09:45 AM even though we grazed the grasslands for a photoshoot. Went close to Yaks as one could get and one more photoshoot near the Indian camp.
Reached Changla around 12 PM and relaxed for a bit and reached Shakti by 02:00 PM. That was quite a ride (with no real big stops).
We decided to visit Thiksey Monastery (must visit place), chilled around for quite some time there till 6 PM (has some good restaurant and a souvenir shop) and then started to Shey Palace.
This is one of its kind of a place with rugged and ruined fortress and we need to climb to reach the top which has a Monastery and a brilliant bird view of Leh.
We started again by 07:00 PM and reached Leh at 08:00 PM and ended the day with a chocolate smoothie at an Old Tibetan Market. Well, to be frank, it was neither a chocolate nor a smoothie!!!
We hired a room again and then decided on the night (roughly around 11pm) to visit Srinagar. Booked the ticket by air to Srinagar and as far as I remember, this is the shortest plan and booking an air ticket for a flight I have ever made which is going to depart in 05 hours!!!
DAY – 7 (Salaam Srinagar)
We waved goodbye to Leh and started to Srinagar by 06:00 AM. Reached Srinagar by 09:00 AM and it was quite pleasant.
We booked a humongous houseboat for a mere 3000 INR in the famous Dal Lake which almost had everything right including WiFi.
For the techies, without internet for 5 days this was an evil catch. Parthi was ecstatic with the Wifi part that he even refused to come out to have a dinner 😉
The entire scenes changed as I could see curfew almost everywhere. Tourism was dull mostly because of the internal turmoil. The interaction with Kashmiris was entirely different from the Ladhakis and I am astounded how much diversity India offers in one state.
It is her diversity that gives her greater respect and I hope we never lose that.
We chilled around Srinagar, the shikari (boat) ride around Dal Lake was nothing short of a fairytale.
DAY – 8 (Srinagar back to Bangalore)
This was the last day of our epic journey. We got the experience of the lifetime. In a nutshell, From being Happy, Ecstatic, Anxious, Fear, Frustrated, Scenic, Alone, tired, nauseated, I do not think any other trip could offer all of these.
Leh-Ladakh is truly a lifetime trip and gives you an utmost satisfaction and fulfillment – the second exact reason why I chose to travel.
But impromptu trip can leave you with frustrations and hence sort out your trip in advance for a lifetime memorable journey.
Things to Carry:
Taking a print out of this page and checklists will avoid you many uncomfortable situations.
Inner Line Permits (to be obtained in Leh).
Sleep bags (needed even if you have booked an accommodation) on a road-trip.
Medical aid (Diamox) and other essentials. This is a must if you are going on a road-trip as the roads tend to slip a lot.
- Appropriate Clothing. Weather in mountains are volatile and hence I would suggest you carry all the clothes keeping all the weather changes in mind
. Another suggestion is to check the weather in the weather app and dress accordingly.
- Copy of all your Documents. Since you are traversing and wandering near the Indo-China borders, this one will come handy.
- Passport Size Photo.
- Zip Lockers (As it may rain anytime, you do not want your documents to go for a toss).
- 2 Shoes and loads of socks ( as there would be many streams midway of the road).
- Biking Accessories (Biking Gloves, Biking Jacket, Sun Ban Glass, Arm Guard, Knee Cap, Balaclava). You can get all of these for rent in the shops around Leh. There are too many shops for you to check and bargain.
- Cash. Not many ATM’s are there in Leh and hence load enough cash for your travel. I would suggest using the ATM near the airport. Most of the transactions that you do in Leh-Ladakh will be in cash and not digital.
- Routes are well documented, but there would be no cell phone towers. GPS Tracker or offline maps would definitely be helpful.
Overall it was an expedition which I cannot forget and will etch in my mind forever. I hope I return soon to this magical alien land away from all the hustles and bustles of the city before it is too late and this land becomes another casualty of civilization.
Catch you guys on my next blog and until then a warm Jullay to all my friends.
Cheers,
Wanderer 🙂
Whispering Mountains... 